![]() If you plan to stain your project, or if you want to ensure an optimum surface, consider a hand sanding with some 400-grit sandpaper for a very smooth finish. If you plan to paint your project, 300-grit final sanding should be sufficient to remove all sander marks and leave a smooth surface for painting. Use progressively finer grits of sandpaper to remove the sanding marks from the previous sanding. Any attempt to move the stock in the opposite direction may cause the bit to grab the stock and force it out of your hands.Īfter the four long edges on all of the slats have been rounded-over, sand all of the slats with a random orbital sander or 1/4-sheet sander. Always move the stock from left to right, against the rotation of the bit. Then, place one salt flat on the router table (as shown in the picture) and ease the four long edges by pushing the seat along the bearing and down each of the long edges. Adjust the depth so that the lower edge of the round over is flush with the top of the router table. Set up your router in your router table with a 1/8" radius round-over bit equipped with a bearing tip. This means that thee needed 25 seats of 18-1/2" x 1/4" thickness were ripped out of a second 2x4. The rails and stiles resulted in an opening of 18" x 25-1/4". As such, the styles are 30-5/8" x 2-1/2", and the rails 20" (to accommodate a 1" long tenon on each end) x 2-11/16" wide. As an example, in the case of the louvered window covering built here as a prototype, the opening is 30-5/8" tall by 23" wide. Use your best judgment as to how wide each of the rails and stiles should be ripped to maintain the integrity of the entire unit. Once you know the dimensions of the louvered piecen, you can determine the length and width of the rails and stiles. Additionally, each seat will be inserted into a 1/4" deep groove in the stiles, so the slats must be formed as 1/2" longer than the width of the opening. For instance, if you have approximately a 24" tall opening for the louvers, make the opening 24-1/4" and insert 24 angled slats at one-inch intervals. You should leave a 1/8" gap between the top and bottom slats and the corresponding rails. Within the mortise is a foam gasket that helps to hold the panel snug in place while allowing for movement.Each installation is different, so you'll need to know some principles before you can begin your layout with the particular measurements for your project.Įach slat in the louvers will cover one vertical inch of space. The center panel is neither pinned or glued in place but rather floats within the frame to allow for natural expansion and contraction of the wood. Those members have a mortise (channel) cut into the interior sides that holds the center panels in place. The door frame has 2 vertical members (stiles) and 2 horizontal members (rails) that are made of solid wood. It is made up of an outer frame consisting of 4 pieces and a center panel that is either raised or flat thus a 5 piece door. 5 Piece Cabinet Door ConstructionĪ 5 piece door or drawer front – framed construction – is a very traditional construction for cabinet doors. We offer a variety of door styles in different construction options that are fashion forward and sure to fit any unique style and budget. For any cabinet, the door and drawer fronts are the most visible part of the box, and at Dura Supreme we take great care in their construction to ensure their lasting beauty and durability. ![]() Today we’re continuing our series of deconstructing our cabinets and discussing our different door and drawer front options. ![]()
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